Three Amigos Ride Baja
It simply doesn’t get any more “deep Southwest” than Baja.
Accompanied by two childhood chums, Lyle and Jimmy, we flew into Cabo and met up with Darin, Lyle’s son and MotoQuest tour guide, and his bride Savannah. After a delish lunch of fish and shrimp tacos, we rode northeast out of the city, Darin and Savannah following in a chase truck with our luggage, toolkits, and trailer they were hauling back to LA. Our mounts were a pair of Suzuki 650 V-Stroms and a BMW F700GS. Perfect bikes for this kind of riding- plenty of power on the open roads, quick and nimble in the often hilly and mountainous terrain, and mile-eaters on long stretches across open landscapes.
Baja, Mexico is a dry, arid peninsula, stretching southeast from the border along Southern California. And yet, Baja is rife with life, with a wide variety of desert flora and fauna flourishing among the rock and sand. We beheld forests of cactus 20ft high, yucca plants and desert rose, and plant life beyond description. The stark, harsh beauty of the peninsula is breathtaking.
Our first leg took us out of Cabo toward La Paz, on the legendary Sea of Cortez. We rode MEX 1, a highway that runs the length of Baja, winding its way back and forth across the peninsula, coast to coast. The roads in Baja California Sur, the southern province, are well surfaced and maintained. Speed limits, however, enforced in towns and cities, are more suggestions out on the long stretches between municipalities. That’s probably all I should say about that … (wink).
Riding the MEX 1 alternates between exhilarating curves up and down the mountain and mesa passes, and long stretches across flat, wide open lands. The pavement surface is a somewhat rougher compound than U.S. highways, which actually aids grip when canyon and curve carving. Motorcyclists are treated with much more respect south of the border, as trucks and automobiles will either slide to the right or signal you around with their left flasher when the way ahead is clear to allow passing … quite refreshing, considering the dangers often faced riding back home.
The road to La Paz winds through the quaint Mexican communities of Santiago and Los Barriles, among others. MEX 19 would have been a more direct route, but not nearly as scenic, according to Darin. At one point, my iPhone flew off the handlebar mount I was using – I neglected to fasten it correctly. Searching up and down the stretch of road, two older Baja fellas stopped to help me and promptly found my scuffed but intact and functioning phone. Very thankful for those “Good Samaritans”!
Riding along the Sea of Cortez, the waters are clear, calm and emerald green, as opposed to the rough and turbulent waves of the Pacific. High, craggy cliffs open up to reveal secret lagoons often dotted with campers and tents. These are evidenced by the length of the eastern coast.
La Paz is a large city on the sea, with beautiful architecture and seaside pleasures. Ride through town and stay at the Club El Moro Hotel. The personnel are warm and friendly, the accommodations classic Mexico, and the dining in their small cafe is delightful, with a gorgeous view out over the bay. Authentic cuisine is also found up and down the oceanfront.
Leaving La Paz, MEX 1 snakes back northwest toward the interior, for miles and hours. Infrequent towns mean monitoring your fluids – your bike fuel and your personal hydration. We rode hard across the high plains, making for the cities of Ciudad Constitucion and Ciudad Insurgentes.
At Insurgentes, MEX 1 turns back east, crossing the plains toward the coastal mountains in the distance. Back in the craggy peaks and valleys, the road once again gets technical, winding toward the Sea of Cortez. So much fun, diving deep into corners and throttling hard out, enjoying the light, nimble handling and instant power of the “Wee-Strom” I was riding. Be sure to stop at a few scenic overlooks down to the shores – many photo ops. Take care, however, as these turnouts are gravel and sand.
Just south of Loreto, take a break at Vista Al Mar, it’s a thatched roof restaurant right on the beach, with incredible food and views across the waters the stop is worth it.
“There’s so much beauty around us, for just two eyes to see. …” -Rich Mullins
Keywords: Baja Adventure, Cabo San Lucas, MotoQuest Tour Guide, Suzuki 650 V-Stroms, BMW F700GS, Southern California, Baja, Mexico, Sea of Cortez, Club El Moro Hotel, Born To Ride Magazine, Born To Ride Multi-Media, Rich Mullins, Ciudad Constitucion and Ciudad Insurgentes